| A ventless hood is the last resort if you cannot find a way to get the fumes from cooking on the range to the outside. While such a hood will trap grease and will kill odors (while the charcoal in the filter is still active - very important - charcoal filters have a limited lifespan) it will not reduce the condensation and smoke caused by cooking. This is especially a problem if you cook with gas that generates a lot of condensation. Depending on how ... |
The critical factors in noise reduction are:
- Type of filters
- Quality of duct work – appropriate size for the airflow, length and number of bends
- Quality and size of blower used
Filters:
There are in essence two types of filters – mesh and baffle. Baffle filters are quieter, 96% efficient and excellent fire travel blockers. Mesh are only recommended in lower cfm applications around 400cfm to 600cfm and over electric style cook tops.
Quality of ductwork:
The most critical element is the size and quality of duct material relative to the maximum airflow you try to move down that duct – for 400cfm internal blowers we recommend 7”, for 600cfm internal blowers 8” and 1200cfm internal blowers 10”. Inline blowers between 600 and 1000cfm need 8” duct and external blowers of 1000cfm 8” duct. Rigid metal duct is strongly recommended – flexible ribbed ducting will be noisy because the air is “tripping” of the ridges and makes noise.
The average duct length and number of bends found today is not too much of an issue – if bends and length is excessive then external blowers and more powerful blowers should be used – if a blowers is trying to “PUSH” a high volume of air down a long and wavy duct run the motor needs to work harder and of course will be noisier.
Blowers:
Common Range
Hood Terms
A very common term used in ventilation is cfm –
cubic feet per minute – this typically measures the volume of air that the hood can process in 1 minute and is an
important metric in sizing the ventilation to your particular cooking environment.
You may also hear of a term static pressure – very basically this is like ...
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Static Pressure: Inside every duct, there is a constant pressure being exerted at any point from all directions. When an range hood fan moves air through the duct, the air counters resistance from this pressure which is known as static pressure. Thus, kitchen venthood fan has to have the ability to overcome the static pressure in a duct so as to effectively duct stale air to the outside of your home. This can be done by calculating the equivalent duct length of any duct for the range hood ducting.
Calculating Equivalent Duct Length (EDL): Simply measuring the length of a duct is not enough to know how much static pressure an exhaust fan has to overcome. Ducts may have one or more elbows, turns, or wall caps which add to the static pressure in a duct. Thus, you have to calculate the equivalent duct run and not the actual duct run so as to size an exhaust fan properly.
The static pressure in any duct run differs according to the material of the duct, number of elbows and turns, exterior wall cap and wall jacks etc. Listed below are the standard values for different duct components.

Actual duct length x 1.50 (for 6”diameter duct)

Actual duct length x 2.00 (for 6”diameter duct)

40 feet for each cap (for 6”diameter duct)


20 feet for each (for 6”diameter duct)
For example assuming 6” ducting for the kitchen range hood:
|
10ft of straight rigid duct |
|
10 |
|
2ft of flexible alum duct |
1.5 x 2’ |
3 |
|
2 elbows |
2 x 20’ |
40 |
|
Wall cap |
1 x 30’ |
30 |
|
Back draft damper |
1 x 30’ |
30 |
|
Total EDL |
|
113EDL |
A rule of thumb is that a duct run for a range hood should not exceed 100EDL
Using the above values, you can calculate the equivalent straight duct length that an exhaust fan has to overcome so as to push stale air outside your home and counter static pressure effectively.